Serenity

Many apologies to those who have been waiting to hear about my wanders in South America. My first entries were written and ready for posting when unfortunately my baby (aka my laptop) unexpectedly died a quick but painful death. I had begun with my arrival in Santiago, as I will return there for an extended period in a couple of months, I have decided to move on and if my computer can be fixed and what I have written is there- I will post it......HERE WE GO!!!!

¨Serenity¨
A sleepy busride north of Santiago reveals beachside retreats and coastal fishing villages that roll out of the tide and onto the shore. Our bus glides to a halt at the La Serena bus terminal, grabbing our bags we slip the driver $2,000 pesos for letting us stay onboard past our purchased stop ( La Serena´s industrial sister city, Coquimbo, had been our original port of call. Expecting a beach town, we were asked to disembark the bus on a smoggy, traffic filled main street of the gritty port city). No map. No place to stay. This is wandering. For about 10 minutes.
We arrive at the birghtly colored door of a hostel that Andrea has heard about, Maria´s Casa. And that´s exactly what it is! Entering her front door you walk through Maria´s living room, kitchen, and to the back of her homewhere there are guest rooms for weary backpackers. Maria´s friends come and go while her sons smoke cigarettes and do handywork in the backyard and around the house.
After "enjoying" an "authentic" Chilean meal, as suggested by our host, we head off to bed. The meal, you ask? Of course I'll tell you! Mauricio, one of Maria's sons, tells usthat we absolutley MUST try a Chilean "Completo". He explains, however pride and fear keep me from having him elaborate and I pray that something was lost in translation. Smiling and nodding Andrea and I head to the restaurant of his choice. Andrea orders two completos.
Do I want any mayo?
Heck yes I do.
I have no idea what this mayo will be put on, but as a general rule in life: If ever in doubt, nod yes for mayonnaise.
Our completos arrive. Placed delicately on an ergonomic, form fitting, red plastic stand (proudly sponsored by Coca-Cola); glistening in all its glory as if a personal bestowal from the heavens themselves lies in wait a hot dog. Want a truly authentic cultural experience? Buy a pack of Oscar Meyer weiners. MICROWAVE them. Slap some guacamole, ketchup, and mayo on a bun- you will have created the gastronomic tradition that is the Chilean Completo!

Awaking to the tast of hot dog on my breath, we head towards the Archaeological Museum across town. Ancient artifacts are great. But after a while you realize that archaeologists seem to always dig up your grandparents pre-historic basement. The earthen pottery, arrow heads, textiles, and hand carved idols of ancient times will be replaced by tupperware, a broken air rifle my uncle got when he was 12, a pink afghan, and Pong in 2000 years time.
Highlights however includded a cool timeline and description of the indigenous poples of Chile, where they lived, how, and when. Most interesting is the account of the Mapuche people who drove the Spanish out of the south of Chile and kept them out for some 300 years. A tremendous feat (unfortunately treaties were signed by chiefs at the end of knife blades and guns pressed into their backs. Forced migration, disease, and incarceration in reservations effectively ended their persistent autonomy).
Through the colonial grid of plazas and churches we walk 2km out of the city center along a plamtree lined esplanade towards the beach. A lighthouse marks our arrival to the seemingly deserted beach. Hotels, resorts, and cabanas rest quietly along the boardwalk during La Serena´s low tourist season. Although the winds and water are cool (it is the beginning of winter) the sky opens and the sun blazes. Ice cream on the beach with Andrea leaves me with and unrelenting Chilean grin.